I've never thought of the Fan District as sexy. Tin ceilings, dark wood and brass accents adorn almost every eating establishment in this historic neighborhood. Cozy? Yes. Sexy? No.
This has held true so often that I've sometimes forgotten what eatery I'm in, but not since an interesting new neighbor moved into the area a few months ago.
Sunny Zhao, a local film producer known for his long locks and outgoing personality, got hold of the building that once housed Vendalia, Konsta's, Carlton's and Verbena and turned it into Fanhouse, a sultry space boasting multiple bars, bold red and black accents and a menu of tantalizing East-meets-West fare.
Drive by after dark, and you'll likely see suavely dressed diners, drinkers and general carousers silhouetted against the downstairs bar's red glow. Just try to tell me that's not sexy.
This space has always had a strong bar scene upstairs, its previous inhabitants using the small, loft-like space for drinks and small plates.
Fanhouse continues this tradition but has converted the downstairs into a gathering area with the same hip appeal, a room engulfed in charisma but still capable of offering a nice sit-down dinner.
Chef Reece Roberts has worked with Zhao to craft a menu that appeals to a range of appetites and palates. Depending on what you order, a meal could easily be made from a sampling of appetizers, such as beef carpaccio ($6) and seafood salad ($10).
During a recent happy hour, we unsuspectingly opted for several less-than-filling options -- Asian beef kabobs and vegetable spring roll (both $5) -- only to wind up down the street inhaling nachos.
Similarly, the grilled ostrich starter ($12) is wonderfully smoky and topped with a refreshing salad of micro greens, cucumber and bell peppers, but the four small bites don't seem worth the price.
When I popped in for dinner, I wondered if the portions of entrées, such as pan-seared sea bass with wasabi mash ($27) and Fanhouse pot roast wrapped in banana leaves ($14), would force me to hit a late-night spot.
Thankfully, no. Fresh herbs, vibrant seasoning and spirited ingredients enlivened most everything we tired. But don't ask about specific ingredients. The staff has signed nondisclosure agreements keeping it from sharing the kitchen's secrets.
Whether you order it or not, one dish you'll surely notice is Fanhouse's signature "crazy dumplings" ($12), packed with beef, shrimp and scallops. Accompanying aged vinegar laced with chili paste has a, um, unique smell -- our server has heard everything from feet to HVAC problems -- but once you dig in, they taste amazing.
On a more aromatic note, the Fanhouse's 700-degree marble slab adventure is excellent. Ten ounces of beef tenderloin ($30) or six lamb chops ($28) are served raw with jasmine rice and uncooked bok choy and mushrooms. Throw your meat and veggies on the slab, and let the fragrance kick your salivary glands into high gear. The lamb chops weren't the best I've ever had, but the dynamic seasoning was spot-on.
I also recommend the lobster and crab fried rice ($18). Not the slightest bit greasy, the rice is moist and fluffy, laced with crisp bits of bell pepper, celery and onion. Huge hunks of lobster and a generous portion of crab make this a must-try. I still kick myself for leaving the to-go box on the table.
Fanhouse has the potential to redefine what it means to be a "Fan bar," but the quality of the menu has to remain if it doesn't want to fall victim to the fate of some of its location's short-lived predecessors.
